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INDEX
(Click on a topic below)
ICK
Symptom:
If your fish looks like it has been sprinkled with salt or sugar, it probably
has ick.
This is probably the most common parasitic diseases among tropical fish. It is
almost always present in aquariums and infects fish that are in poor health or
have had a recent infection that has left them without certian immunities. Ick
can become visible on a fish if the fish's natural resistance is weakened from
shock, unsuitable water conditions, overcrowding or an improper diet. A fish
that has been recently added to the tank can also be a carrier of ick. Therefore
, like most fish diseases, the best prevention is to maintain optimum water
conditions.
Treatment: This should be done in a separate
hospital tank. The most common external parasitic control drugs packaged for use
against ICK are Malachite Green, Aureomycin, Benzaldehyde, Quinine
Hydrochloride, or quinine Sulfate. We personally, have had the best luck with
the product called CLOUT. Ask your fish dealer to recommend the most successful
one. Follow all manufacturers instructions.
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SWIM
BLADDER
Symptom: The fish has a buoyancy problem. The fish
may float to the surface, sink to the bottom, swim with its head down or do
headstands in the gravel. At the later stages of the disease, the fish may lose
its balance or swim upside down.
The key to swim bladder diagnosis is that no other signs of disease are present
and the water conditions have been ideal. Since environmental conditions can
affect the equilibrium of the fish, pay special attention to the density and
temperature of the water.
Treatment: There is no specific medical treatment
for swim bladder disorders. If the origin of the problem is not from disease, a
fish may recover on its own. If the water conditions and feeding are normal, and
no signs or symptoms are noticed, assume the cause is from a bacterial
infection. The Best treatment is a broad spectrum gram negative antibiotic such
as Nitrofuran (Furan) or Kanamycin Sulfate. You should treat in a hospital tank.
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FIN OR
TAIL ROT
Symptom: The fish's tail or fins are frayed or
ragged, may appear to be decaying or shrinking. Goldfish and other long-tailed
fish may have red streaks in their veiltails.
Fin or tail rot is a bacterial disease that usually attacks weak or slightly
damaged fin edges. Once established, the bacterium slowly consumes the fin as it
works its way toward the body. This causes the fins to appear frayed, ragged or,
in severe cases, nearly stubs.
Treatment: You should teat in a hospital tank with
an antibiotic that is made for fin and tail rot. There are several manufactured
for fin and tail rot. Follow all manufacturers instructions. If you have a
ultraviolet light, it should be left on in the main tank to help control the
spread of the disease.
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DROPSY
Symptom: The body will have general swelling with
protrusion of the scales. The Eyes may also bulge.
Dropsy is a bacterial disease that attacks nearly all the internal organs of the
fish, causing a concentration of fluids in body tissue or cavities. Be careful
not to confuse Dropsy with Egg Binding, natural spawning cycles or just an obese
fish. The scales of a male Cardinal Tetra or Playfairi will stand out from his
body during spawning periods. This is normal, but would give false symptoms of
dropsy. Tuberculosis can also cause the body to swell and the scales to
protrude. But the treatment for Dropsy is basically the same as for
Tuberculosis.
Treatment: Dropsy is not very infectious. However,
the treatment should be done in a hospital tank. The best treatment for this is
a gram negative antibiotic such as Nitrofuran (Furan) or Kanamycin Sulfate.
Follow all manufacturers instructions.
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EGG
BINDING
Symptom: The fish is severely bloated in the belly
only (not the whole body). The fish may also be lethargic, exhibit rapid
breathing and have a loss of appetite.
Egg binding can occur in freshwater fish during their spawning cycle. If a fish
can not find a suitable mate, has been fed a poor diet, or if the tank or water
conditions of the aquarium are not ideal for spawning, a fish may not be able to
release its eggs.
Treatment: There is no medical treatment for egg
binding. The only treatment for this is to let the eggs be naturally absorbed
into the fish's body. This process can be aided with Epsom Salt soaks. Siphon a
bucket of tank water and mix in one slightly rounded tablespoon of Epsom Salt
for every gallon of water. Add an air stone, place the fish in the water, cover
the bucket and allow the fish a 15 - minute soak. Repeat this treatment daily
until the fish begins to recover.
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HOLE
IN HEAD
Symptom: Fish has tiny, round holes in the head
area. Close examination usually revels small, whitish strings (worms) inside the
hole. This is a parasitic disease Hexamita, and it is primarily introduced into
the tank from live feeder fish and tubifex worms. Poor water conditions or poor
nutrition can contribute to the spread of the disease.
Treatment: Net the fish and treat in a separate
hospital tank. The product we have had great results with is called Hole - In -
Head Guard by Jungle. There are several other products made specifically for
this. Follow all manufacturers instructions.
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FUNGUS
Symptom: The fish has patches of white or gray
cottony, fuzzy puffs attached to its skin, fins or in wounds. The fish's eyes
may also be cloudy or have a film over them. There may also be excessive mucus
production on the fish's gills, or around the circumference of wounds. Fungus is
usually a freshwater fish infection. In most cases , this is a secondary
infection.
Treatment: If medicated quickly, fungus is usually
easy to cure. There are several packaged medications for this. Most include such
drugs as Acriflavine, Neutroflavine or copper sulfate. Follow all manufacturers
instructions. Some fungus medications are applied directly on the patch of
fungus with a cotton swab. If this is what the manufacturer recommends, net the
fish and place it on a clean wet towel. Dip the cotton swab in the medication
and then swab it on the fungus spot. Do NOT keep the fish out of the water for
more than 1 minute. Quickly place the fish in a hospital tank that has already
been set up. Since fungus is usually a secondary infection, treat the fish in
the hospital tank for a bacterial infection with Nitrofuran (Furan) or Kanamycin
Sulfate.
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POPEYE
Symptom: One or both eyes protrude from the
socket. Some fish also exhibit a lack of appetite.
Popeye can be caused from bacterial diseases, abscesses and tumors, eye
injuries, as well as over - aerated water. If left untreated, the eye may bulge
out so far that the eye can pop out of the socket, resulting in the loss of an
eye.
Treatment: First eliminate the possibility of
over-aeration. If you have been using high powered power heads that shoot
streams of water into the tank water, your fish may be the victim of nitrogen
supersaturation. The tiny air bubbles enter the fish's bloodstream and can
accumulate behind the eye, causing it to protrude.
Treatment: The treatment for nitrogen super
saturation , turn the power head water stream adjustment to its lowest setting.
Temporarily shut off the air to the power heads, and allow the air pump to be
the only source of air. Observe the popeye for a few days . If this was the
problem, the eye should begin to recede. If no improvement is noticed or if it
worsens, assume the problem is bacterial in nature and treat with Nitrofuran
(Furan) or Kanamycin Sulfate. Treat in a hospital tank.
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GILL
AND SKIN FLUKES
Symptom: The fish scratches against the gravel or
tank decoration, has clamped fins, exhibits rapid breathing, may swim wildly or
near the water surface. The fish's gills may have excessive mucus or turn a dull
gray. Livebearers show signs of clamped dorsal or anal fins and become
lethargic.
Gill and skin flukes are microscopic worm-like parasites that attach themselves
to the gills and/or body of the fish. With a 10x magnification, only the largest
flukes can be seen. These tiny transparent worms can be extremely distressful to
the fish.
Treatment: Gill and skin flukes can be
successfully treated with formalin baths or with medication in a separate
hospital tank. Formalin bath is the desired treatment, and the fish is not too
big, place the fish in a three - gallon bucket of siphoned, aerated tank water.
Medicate the bucket of water with 600mg. of formalin to every one gallon of
water. Place an airs stone in the bucket, cover the bucket and leave the fish in
the bath for 30 minutes. If at any time the fish shows signs of stress, becomes
listless, exhausted or loses its balance, immediately place the fish back in the
main tank. If you choose to treat the fish with a Gill or Skin Fluke medication,
do so in a hospital tank. There are several medications available, follow all
manufacturers instructions.
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TUMORS
Symptom: Lumps or growths on or beneath the skin
of the fish. If the lump or growth is underneath the gill cover, it is probably
a swollen thyroid.
Occasionally, internal and external tumors become apparent in fish. Although
unpleasant to look at, many tumors are benign, and the fish seem unaffected by
them and can live a normal life. However some may be cancerous and will continue
to grow to enormous sizes, causing distress and eventually death to the fish.
Treatment: If the tumor is small and does not seem
to affect the fish, is not unpleasant to look at and is not growing at a rapid
rate, it can be left alone. There is no reason to isolate the fish, since tumors
are usually not infectious. If it is causing the fish great stress for the fish,
a humane death may be in order. Thyroid tumors can be caused from the lack of
iodine in the diet. If the tumor is under the gill of the fish and is causing
the gill to remain open, the problem is likely a swollen thyroid and can be
treated with potassium iodine. Place the fish in a hospital tank. Add 1
milligram of potassium iodine for every gallon of water. Redose proportionally
after every water change. The treatment period could take up to 4 weeks.
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FILTER
CYCLE
The biological filter cycle is the
process that transforms new gravel filter beds into an established biological
filter. During this period, fish waste decays forming bacteria and ammonia in
the filter bed. As the bacteria level rises, it transforms the ammonia into
nitrites. At this stage, the toxicity levels peak and are the most lethal to
fish. The bacteria eventually transforms the nitrites into less toxic nitrates.
When the ammonia and nitrite levels reach near zero, the cycle is complete and
more delicate fish can be added at that time.
The above example is a common model of a
biological filter cycle. The actual toxicity levels and number of days required
for completion of the cycle depends on tank size, number of fish, water changes
and the amount of oxygen in the water.
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BACTERIAL INFECTION
Symptoms:
Cloudy eyes, open sores (ulcers) on the body or lateral lines, abscesses,
rotting or inflammation (reddening) of the skin, fins or internal organs,
bulging eyes or rapid breathing are all symptoms of a bacterial disease.
Treatment: Fish with bacterial diseases should be
treated in a separate hospital tank. The best medication is a broad spectrum
gram negative antibiotic such as nitrofuran or kanamycin sulfate.It is real
important that you give the full recommended treatment as well as for the full
treatment period to prevent the disease from reoccurring. If you have a
ultraviolet light, it should be left on in the main tank to help control the
spread of the disease.
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ANCHOR
WORMS - These are small parasitic
crustaceans.
Symptoms:
Clear to white or brown string-like worms with forked tails and are visible on
the skin head or mouth of the fish. Open sores may appear on the fish's skin
with the worms protruding from it.
Treatment: If the worms are large it is best to
remove the worms rather than medicating the fish. Net the fish and place it on a
clean wet towel. With a pair of tweezers, carefully pull each worm from the fish
"with the grain". Dip a cotton swab in a broad spectrum antiseptic such as
betadine. You can get this at any drug store. Dab the swab on the wound where
the worm was attached, let the drug penetrate for 10 seconds and then place the
fish back in the tank. DO NOT KEEP THE FISH OUT OF THE WATER FOR MORE THAN 1
MINUTE. If the worms are small, like fine threads, it is best to medicate
the tank. Ask your local fish dealer to recommend an anti-parasitic medication
for Anchor Worms or Fish Lice such as trichlorfon. Treat the fish in a hospital
tank and follow the manufacturers recommendations.
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CAMALLANUS WORMS - small red or brown worms
that attach themselves to the rectum and intestines of the fish
Symptoms:
A resting fish may have red or brown worms protruding from its anus. The fish
may also appear pinched in the belly.
Treatment: Ask your local fish dealer to recommend
a proper (marine or freshwater) medication for internal parasitic worms. Most
medications for this will contain such a drug as trichlorfon, yomesan or
piperazine. Follow all manufacturers recommendations and treat the fish in a
separate hospital tank.
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CONSTIPATION
Symptoms:
A string of feces trails behind the fish, the abdomen swells, the fish has
little interest in food, and the fish is sluggish or resting on the bottom. No
symptoms of disease is present.
Treatment: Do not feed the fish for two days.
Separate it from its tank mates if possible with a glass partition at feeding
time. After the two day fast, feed the fish herbivore plant and vegetable foods
such as romaine lettuce, algae or green peas (remove skin) for the next two
days. After the treatment period, feed a proper and varied diet. If the
constipation is severe and this treatment did not work and the fish seems to be
stressed, it can be treated with cod liver oil. Net the fish and place it on a
clean wet towel. Place two drops of cod liver oil in the mouth of the fish and
place the fish back in the main tank. DO NOT KEEP THE FISH OUT OF THE WATER
FOR MORE THAN ONE MINUTE. Do not feed the fish for two days after this
treatment.
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DIARRHEA
Symptoms:
The fish has extremely loose feces, is not interested in food and may have a
swollen body. No symptoms of disease are present.
Treatment: Don't let the affected fish eat for two
days. Separate it from its tank mates with a glass partition if possible at
feeding time, if possible. After the fast, feed flake and carnivore foods for
three days such as brine shrimp, beef hearts, small feeder fish, freeze dried
tubifex worms or blood worms. Remember to feed a varied diet and proper diet for
the fish you have.
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